Regardless of whether you’re having a great hair day or crushing it at work, one bad breakout can completely change everything. Not only are pimples incredibly inconvenient and totally unapologetic about it—as evidenced by the multitude of zits camping out on my right cheek—they can also be really hard to cover if you don’t understand the best practices to do so.
Although pimples come in all shapes in sizes, there are certain makeup techniques that can help to minimize their appearance on your face if that's what you're looking for. The right full-coverage foundation or finesse of a Beautyblender could be the difference between doing a little too much and a smoother, more natural-looking complexion. As someone who’s gone through lots of trial and error with zits and dark spots, I know that covering them up requires some skills—which is why I reached out for some expert tips.
To find out how to make breakouts vanish (at least for a few hours), I spoke with Kelli J. Bartlett, artistic director at Glamsquad; celebrity makeup artist Allan Avendaño; and Dominique Lerma, Moda Brush executive artist, to get the lowdown on common mistakes we make when it comes to hiding pesky pimples.
1. You’re not allowing your breakout to heal properly.
Piling on a ton of makeup over your zits will not only make them more obvious, but also slow down their healing process. It’s not enough to just cover them up and hope they’ll disappear—treating the skin under the makeup will actually help pimples go away sooner. “One common mistake that women make when concealing breakouts is not taking the time to heal the breakout before moving forward with concealing it,” Lerma explains. “I never recommend putting makeup on an open breakout/freshly popped pimple. It’s as unsanitary as it sounds and the breakout will not heal properly when makeup is packed on top.” Editor tip: Since breakouts can become even worse if they’re improperly treated—resulting in dark spots or even scabbing—it's best to use a spot treatment like Mario Badescu Drying Lotion, $17, to help them dry out and heal before you conceal.
2. You’re using dirty makeup tools.
Not washing your brushes and sponges can cause them to collect bacteria, which tends to make acne worse. “Before even getting to makeup, you have to make sure that everything is clean, so no dirty brushes or sponges,” Avendaño tells SELF. Makeup guru Bobbi Brown has said that brushes that are used around the eyes should be cleaned at least twice a month while all others can be washed once a month.
3. You’re not moisturizing enough.
Even if you’re not suffering from a breakout, moisturizing should always be a first step before applying makeup, as it helps to provide a smooth base for foundation and concealer. It'll also help avoid looking like you piled too much product on. “Skin-care is of utmost importance always but especially when dealing with a breakout,” Lerma says. “I recommend following your skin-care regimen, but applying a little extra moisturizer on the breakout area, and then priming the entire face.”
Avendaño agrees, explaining that applying a moisturizer before foundation makes a huge difference for acne-prone skin. “Whenever I’m working on someone with acne, I make sure to apply moisturizer first so any dry areas are fully hydrated, ensuring concealer and foundation don’t cling to dry spots around their breakouts,” he says. “I love using the Differin Oil Control Moisturizer SPF 30 before applying foundation because it’s a moisturizer with SPF, and due to its matte finish, also acts as a primer.”
4. You’re not using a color corrector.
Color correcting might seem intimidating, but once you understand how colors work for different issues, they can be your go-to secret weapon for disguising zits—especially if they’re more on the red side. Color correctors are “so helpful for really red pimples or dark acne scars,” Bartlett explains. “I typically use a green shade for red, inflamed blemishes, but yellow works, too. Peach shades tend to cover dark spots very well.”
