When ice dancers took to the rink at the 2022 Beijing Winter Olympics, many of the women skated in something unusual: pants.
A half dozen ice dancers wore pantsuits or unitards for the rhythm dance portion of the competition, though all returned to skirts for their free dances.
Among the women's figure skaters, only Swedish skater Josefina Taljegård wore pants for the short program.
So in the year 2022, why are pants still so unusual in figure skating?
“I think that there’s definitely the mindset that it’s a very traditional sport," Mirai Nagasu, the bronze medalist who became the first American woman to land the ultra-difficult triple axel jump in Olympic competition in 2018. "Also it’s very subjective. I think as athletes, we’re all people pleasers."
Skating is about as traditional as it gets, and competitors don't want to risk annoying the judges (and losing points) by getting too edgy.
What figure skaters wear plays no small role in their overall appeal, and how judges perceive them. Women can wear pretty much what they want, as long as it’s not (too) outlandish or tacky.
According to the International Skating Union, “Clothing and make-up must be modest, dignified and appropriate for athletic competition — not garish or theatrical in design. Clothing may, however, reflect the character of the music chosen. Clothing must not give the effect of excessive nudity.” As for the guys, they must wear “trousers” and are banned from wearing tights.
Skaters' appearances have been tightly regulated over the years. The so-called “Katarina rule” required female skaters to cover their "hips and posterior," and was instituted thanks to Katarina Witt’s racy costume at the 1988 games. The rule was repealed in 2004, and skaters were allowed to wear unitards, tights or pants if they chose.
“The rule is you have to have 50 percent of your body covered. But there have definitely been slips. But I would say that the slip-up from the French team at the 2018 Olympics cost them the gold medal. Because any kind of slip up, it takes away from the performance,” says Nagasu. (Note: French skater Gabriella Papadakis’ costume came undone and she was briefly exposed during her performance).
Nagasu said for ice dance in particular, it wasn't until a couple seasons ago that women had the choice to wear unitards.
Nagasu said skaters want clothing that’s fluid, lightweight, and durable.
“Because it is very aerodynamic and you have to be very light on your feet, you’ll notice that between the single skaters who are doing a lot of jumps, their skirts will tend to be shorter, whereas ice dancers who don’t have to do the jumps, they mostly stay pretty on the ice. For them, they’re not even allowed to do lifts over their head where their arms extend fully. That’s reserved for pair skaters,” says Nagasu.
Because of that, “ice dancers usually have longer dresses, whereas skaters who have to do more jumpy rotational elements have shorter skirts. That’s because if you have that much fabric just whipping around, it could slow you down.”
Nagasu said she never explored unitards because she liked the way the fabric of a skirt moved with her legs. But she points to Ashley Cain-Gribble, a pairs skater, with her iconic unitard look.
Related:
- Johnny Weir's all-time favorite figure skating costumes
- Why do figure skaters wear tights over skates?
Alexandra Clay
As a passionate figure skating enthusiast and someone with an in-depth understanding of the sport, let me delve into the fascinating world of figure skaters' attire, particularly the intriguing dynamics surrounding the use of pantsuits and unitards, as highlighted in the 2022 Beijing Winter Olympics.
Firstly, the choice of attire in figure skating is deeply rooted in tradition and subjectivity, as underscored by Mirai Nagasu, the bronze medalist known for her groundbreaking triple axel jump in 2018. The sport's traditional nature and the athletes' desire to please judges without risking deductions play a significant role in the choices skaters make.
The International Skating Union (ISU) sets guidelines for skaters' clothing and makeup, emphasizing modesty, dignity, and appropriateness for athletic competition. The regulations specify that clothing should not be garish or theatrical and should reflect the character of the chosen music. While there is room for individual expression, excessive nudity is discouraged.
Historically, skaters' appearances have been closely regulated. The "Katarina rule," inspired by Katarina Witt's provocative costume in 1988, mandated female skaters to cover their "hips and posterior." This rule was repealed in 2004, allowing skaters the freedom to choose unitards, tights, or pants. However, the requirement to have at least 50 percent of the body covered remains.
Notably, slip-ups in adhering to these rules can have consequences. Mirai Nagasu mentioned the French team's costume mishap in the 2018 Olympics, where Gabriella Papadakis' costume came undone, potentially costing them the gold medal.
In terms of practical considerations, skaters, especially in ice dance, now have the option to wear unitards, a choice granted only in recent seasons. The preference for fluid, lightweight, and durable clothing is crucial, given the aerodynamic nature of the sport. Skaters adapt their attire based on their specific disciplines—single skaters with shorter skirts for agility during jumps, and ice dancers with longer dresses, reflecting the prohibition on lifts over the head.
While some skaters, like Mirai Nagasu, appreciate the way skirts move with their legs, others, such as pairs skater Ashley Cain-Gribble, opt for the iconic unitard look. Each skater's choice is a delicate balance between tradition, individual expression, and the practical demands of the sport.
In conclusion, the attire of figure skaters is a nuanced aspect of the sport, shaped by tradition, rules, and the unique demands of different disciplines within figure skating. The 2022 Beijing Winter Olympics offered a glimpse into the evolving choices and expressions of skaters through the use of pantsuits and unitards, challenging the traditional norms in a sport deeply rooted in history.
