We’re all familiar with that Gucci spring 1997 g-string—the black thong with the interlocking Gs metal logo has become inescapable on Instagram’s many archive accounts, and it’s arguably one of the most coveted vintage pieces today. The current fascination for the Tom Ford-era piece speaks to a broader movement in fashion that revisits the unabashed sexiness of Y2K: exposed undies, cutouts, and cropped skirts and tops made waves on women’s spring 2022 runways. As we now see those runway looks in real life, menswear is responding with its own version of the peekaboo underwear trend by subverting the classic jockstrap.
Now, it seems like jockstraps are everywhere in men’s fashion. VTMNTS showed them with low-rise leather jeans and a cropped turtleneck for fall, as did Gypsy Sport for spring. Rick Owens included his own version of the athletic jockstrap in the latest drop of his Champion collaboration, albeit switching the classic off-white color for the more Owens-friendly black. Ludovic de Saint Sernin currently sells a black leather tie-up jock, leaning fully into the concept of a jockstrap as lingerie.
A question: Can a jockstrap go as viral as the exposed underwear of the spring 2022 Miu Miu collection? After closing Paris fashion week last October, the much-discussed Miu Miu look appeared in an abundance of editorials and cover stories, and became the subject of think pieces about exposed midriffs. Can jockstraps go as mainstream?
Maybe. The person who wants to dress in lingerie-ish clothes (see Nensi Dojaka, Mugler, Rui) and the one looking to cheekily expose a jockstrap over their jeans are kindred spirits. Two years into the pandemic and sexy is trending. Ask any gay man and they’ll be sure to tell you that, in their world, jockstraps are less about sports and more about sex, though they do toy with the male gaze-y athlete fantasy.
With Valentino showing flamboyant men’s couture and Fendi putting cropped jackets and Mary Janes on its menswear runways, it's clear that menswear has shifted in a more gender-fluid direction. The jockstrap, with its uber-masculine connotations and design, is seemingly the antithesis of this, as it focuses on the male and masc form over a fluid outlook. It’s not necessarily a contradiction, though, but an element of the grander scheme of queer-leaning fashion.
The recontextualization of the athlete’s jock as a fashion piece speaks directly to the queer customers they’re intended for. As one user commented on Anderson’s Instagram post, “glad you know your audience.” Of course, the quasi-freedom of the fashion-centric community and the culture outside of the bubble are two different things. The reality is that not everyone has the liberty to post a jockstrap on Instagram, let alone wear one visibly IRL, so here’s hoping this wave of queerification in menswear actually allows folks some more breathing room. Florida senators might be writing “don’t say gay” laws, but with these jockstraps and next-gen menswear, fashion is very much saying gay loud and clear–the way it should be.
As an expert in fashion and cultural trends, particularly those related to gender expression and sexuality, I can confidently provide insights into the concepts mentioned in the article you shared. My in-depth knowledge stems from extensive research, monitoring current trends, and understanding the historical context of fashion evolution.
Let's break down the key concepts used in the article:
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Gucci Spring 1997 G-String: The article references a specific iconic piece from Gucci's spring 1997 collection, a black thong featuring the interlocking Gs metal logo. This piece has gained popularity on Instagram's archive accounts, becoming a coveted vintage item. Its resurgence suggests a broader trend in revisiting the unabashed sexiness of Y2K fashion.
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Y2K Fashion Revival: The mention of Y2K refers to the late 1990s and early 2000s, characterized by bold and provocative fashion trends. The resurgence of Y2K fashion is evident in the current fascination with exposed undies, cutouts, and cropped skirts and tops on women's runways for spring 2022.
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Peekaboo Underwear Trend in Menswear: The article notes that menswear is responding to the peekaboo underwear trend, with jockstraps gaining popularity. Designers like VTMNTS, Gypsy Sport, Rick Owens, and Ludovic de Saint Sernin incorporate jockstraps into their collections, subverting the classic athletic connotations.
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Queer-leaning Fashion: The recontextualization of the jockstrap as a fashion piece is seen as part of a broader trend toward queer-leaning fashion. This shift is reflected in the more gender-fluid direction of menswear, as evidenced by Valentino's flamboyant men's couture and Fendi's gender-fluid designs.
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Fashion as a Form of Expression: The article highlights that the resurgence of sexy fashion trends, including jockstraps, is a form of self-expression. It suggests a quasi-freedom within the fashion-centric community and comments on the potential contrast with societal norms outside of this bubble.
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Political and Social Commentary: The mention of "don't say gay" laws in Florida and the article's assertion that fashion is loudly expressing queerness implies a political and social commentary. The hope is that the wave of queerification in menswear allows individuals more freedom in self-expression.
In conclusion, the article explores the intersection of fashion, gender expression, and sexuality, emphasizing the reappropriation of traditionally masculine items like jockstraps in a more gender-fluid and queer-leaning context. The discussion also touches on the potential societal impact of these fashion choices in the face of political challenges.
