What gauge is embroidery thread?
Embroidery threads are often available in a variety of thread weights, the most popular being 40wt, followed by the finer and lighter 60wt. 40 wt. threads should be your go-to thread for general needlework. When creating patterns with fine details, use a 60wt thread.
Remember, the higher the number within any line of thread, the finer the thread. Sizes 3 and 5 are heavier, used often for needlepoint and sometimes for surface embroidery. Sizes 8 and 12 are relatively fine threads, often used for tatting and crocheted edgings and the like, as well as for embroidery.
The most common size of hand embroidery perle cotton is a #8. If you're just starting out or doing any general hand embroidery, this is the recommended thread weight.
Most embroidery and sewing thread sizes are numbered from 100 to 12. A larger number indicates a smaller thread size. For sewing purposes, most garments use size 50 cotton thread, but embroidered items often require size 40 thread.
#5 is a little thicker than the #8 but still thinner than the #3. Many people prefer using this size over the #8 because they like how it stands out a bit more and adds a little more emphasis to the stitching. With this size thread, we recommend using a milliners size 1 needle.
40 weight thread is the most commonly used embroidery thread and will cover most projects, from free-hand embroidery to quilting, digitizing to clothing construction.
Cotton embroidery thread
Cotton threads can be purchased in standard thickness, but they also come in very fine varieties, suitable for incredibly intricate and delicate work. Keep in mind that the finer the thread, the more likely it is to break while embroidering.
So when you look at your regular DMC stranded cotton that you buy locally (the green floss above), you will have 6 “strands” that you separate to use. Each one of those strands is relatively small, and it is made up of two “plies” that are twisted together to form the thread that you embroider with.
Our finest long fibre cotton embroidery thread is a 4 ply non-divisible twisted thread. Sold in four thicknesses with size 16 being the thickest and size 30 being the finest. Sizes 16, 20 and 30 are most popular for whitework and cutwork embroidery.
Embroidery needles have a long eye which makes threading the needle so much easier when using multiple strands of thread. The most popular sizes used to embroider are size 7 and 9.
What is the most common embroidery thread?
Common embroidery threads are usually made of polyester or viscose (rayon). Polyester embroidery threads are well suited for heavily used textiles, they are colorfast, some can even be washed up to 95° and have a higher tensile strength than rayon threads.
Embroidery floss or stranded cotton is a loosely twisted, slightly glossy 6-strand thread, usually of cotton but also manufactured in silk, linen, and rayon. Cotton floss is the standard thread for cross-stitch, and is suitable for most embroidery excluding robust canvas embroidery.

Sizing: On Adult size garments, typical design sizes range from 8" to 12" wide or up to 10" to 12" tall. On Youth size garments, typical design sizes range from 6" to 10" or up to 8" to 10" tall.
In the picture below, you will notice that size 5 is slightly thicker than size 8. With Perle Cotton, you do not need to separate threads, like you might typically do with regular floss.
DMC (short for “Dollfus-Mieg & Compagnie”) is the world's best-known brand of embroidery floss.
DMC Stranded Cotton is The World's Favourite Embroidery Thread. Using the world's finest long staple cotton it is mercerised twice to give your embroidery an exceptional sheen. The 6 easily divisible strands allow you to vary the weight of your stitches to add depth to your project.
40 wt thread is a perfect “go to” thread for free motion quilting, embroidery, or binding when you don't want too much bulk in your stitches, but want them to “pop” a little extra!
Silk threads
Of all natural embroidery fibers, silk is not only the strongest, but it also has the highest sheen.
Fine weight threads run from 60wt to 100wt. These smaller threads are ideal for intricate work such as micro quilting and fine detailed machine embroidery like freestanding designs or monograming. They can be made from cotton on the larger end to polyester on the finer end.
Thicker threads, or heavyweight threads, are often used in machine embroidery to create a bold, textured effect. Machine embroidery thread, made from polyester or rayon, typically comes in 40 or 60 weights. Cotton quilting thread, on the other hand, is usually finer and comes in weights ranging from 50 to 100.
What is the minimum thickness for embroidery?
For flat embroidery, the minimum thickness for shapes is 0.05″ (1.3 mm). We use satin stitch for all shapes that are from 0.05″ (1.3 mm) to 0.5″ (12.5 mm) thick and tatami stitch for shapes thicker than 0.5″ (12.5 mm). For 3D puff, the minimum thickness is 0.2″ (5 mm) and the maximum is 0.5″ (12.5 mm).
Turkey Work (Turkey Stitch) is a great way to create fluffy textures. It's made by alternating tiny anchor stitches with looped stitches - you'll cut the loops at the end.
12wt is actually the thickest thread you can put through the eye of a machine needle, so you can guarantee a quilted look where the thread adds another dimension of texture and colour.
DMC Diamant is a metallic thread. Unlike the 6-stranded DMC metallic thread sold in the floss section of stores, Diamant is softer and it holds up to stitching very well. It is smooth, compared to other metallics. And it works quite well for surface embroidery.
I have two favorite DMC threads: floche and coton a broder #25 (also called “special embroidery cotton, DMC 107”). I use these two threads for monogramming, especially, but also for other surface embroidery. Neither thread is as easy to come by as DMC floss (stranded cotton) or perle cotton in the various sizes.
Kevlar(TM) thread is one of the strongest and most fire retardant commercially available threads. It is about 2.5 times stronger than nylon or polyester, has almost no stretch, does not melt, and decomposes at 800F.
When discussing weight of thread, the smaller the number, the thicker the thread. The weight is determined by how many meters of thread it takes for a skein to weigh one kilogram. In this case, the 40 wt thread is slightly thicker (heavier) than the 50 wt thread.
On the other hand, the weight system, most popular in the U.S., is not a direct numbering system because the larger the number (30 wt., 40 wt., 50. wt., 60 wt.), the finer the thread.
Embroidery floss (yes, floss) is made up of 6 strands of embroidery thread. The 6 strands are spun with a z twist. These are then combined using an S twist, made to come apart. As a result, when you stitch you take out 2 stands of THREAD from the embroidery FLOSS.
Crewel/embroidery needles
This is the most commonly used needle for embroidery. It's a medium-length, sharp-pointed needle with a long eye. The most popular sizes used in embroidery are size 7 and 9, that's why we recommend this set from Hemline.
Does the quality of embroidery floss matter?
Starting off with a high quality brand of thread like Madeira, will ensure you trouble free stitching from the start. Cheap thread can break, fray, and stitch poorly. High quality thread is designed for strength, durability and performance on high speed embroidery machines.
A basic guideline that many professional embroiderers use to determine when to change needles is the three strikes rule. You should replace a needle whenever there has been three consecutive thread breaks on the needle. You should also change a needle if it breaks or is skipping stitches.
While embroidery floss is flat and smooth when stitched, pearl cotton has a distinctive twisted look. Floss comes in skeins and cones, while pearl cotton comes in skeins and balls. Skeins are how most types of floss are found - the green floss above is in a skein! Skeins often contain 8.7 yards of floss.
Embroidery thread does not have the same strength and is not designed for seaming. WEIGHT- Embroidery thread is most commonly a 35 or 40-weight thread.
You can, with the thinner crochet threads, but perle cotton would be a better choice. Crochet thread is twisted differently than embroidery threads are, and is usually just a bit stiffer. The lighter weight the crochet thread, though, the better it will work - size 40 will work better than size 10.
Two-ply means that two yarns are twisted together to make a single thread that is then woven into the fabric.
Because bobbin threads are lighter weight than regular embroidery thread, you may need to enlarge a design to make it less dense and/or adjust the tension when using a matching thread in the bobbin. OESD™ produces a 100% polyester bobbin thread in white or black that you can wind onto your own bobbins. Aurifil 50wt.
For most embroidery projects on average-weight fabric, a 75/11 needle works great. For heavier cottons and linens, you might go up to an 80/12 size, and for heavy denims and fleeces you might use a 90/14 needle. Please note that the thinner your thread, the smaller the needle should be.
DMC pearl cotton Size 8 is a thin, yet strong thread that is ideal for creating delicate, fine embroidery details. Its thinness makes it perfect for intricate and detailed stitching work.
When embroidering heavyweight fabrics or fabrics that require stabilizer fabric (denim or puffy foam) use a 90/14 needle. 8. Ball point needles (golden colored) are not recommended for embroidering; they may break and cause some type of injury.
What is Perle 8 equivalent to?
Perle Cotton Floss. DMC #8 is wonderful to use in embroidery as well as wool applique. The #8 size is equivalent to 3 strands of embroidery floss. However, Perle Cotton is the "height of laziness" as you use it just as it comes off the ball - no pulling apart the tangly strands of floss!!
Equivalent to a Lizbeth® size 20, this luminous cotton thread is highly mercerized and non-divisible. It's soft and silky and ideal for embroidery, needlepoint, hardanger, blackwork, redwork, pulled thread, smocking, applique, crochet, and other types of creative stitchery.
I like to use #3, #5 and #8 perle cotton when teaching children to embroider, because the thread is easy for them to handle and they don't have to worry about separating it.
Thread weight describes the thickness of embroidery thread and bobbin thread. The larger the number, the thinner the thread. The smaller the number, the thicker the thread.
Genuine Made in France.
DMC embroidery floss is made of 100% Egyptian cotton and is colorfast and washable. The most recommended floss in the world is made up of six easily separated strands allowing you to customize anything from friendship bracelets to hand embroidered keepsakes.
Thread breaks can be caused by tension issues, machine timing, thread path interference, thread caught under spool, old or Rayon thread or poor digitizing. Thread frays usually have more to do with timing, burrs and nicks in the thread path.
For beginners, we recommend working with 6-stranded cotton floss while you practice your skills. It's easy to find, inexpensive, comes in a million colors and will help you master the basics before adding in more expensive or delicate materials.
Madeira incredible Thread contains a great variety of lively colors, great packaging, best for outdoor fabrics, and machine embroidery. It is scored highest in best Embroidery Thread brands, and for embroidery, Rayon is considered the best material by Madeira.
In the picture below, you will notice that size 5 is slightly thicker than size 8. With Perle Cotton, you do not need to separate threads, like you might typically do with regular floss.
Which thread is thicker 30 or 40?
A 30-wt. thread is a “heavier” thread, meaning a thicker cross section, because a much shorter thread weighs the same as the 40 wt. In length measurements, higher numbers reflect thicker or heavier threads.
Crewel or Embroidery needles are medium length with a sharp point and a narrow eye. They come in numbers 1-12 and 6-8 are the most commonly used. They can be used for surface embroidery, crewel work, whitework and goldwork.
Sizing: On Adult size garments, typical design sizes range from 8" to 12" wide or up to 10" to 12" tall. On Youth size garments, typical design sizes range from 6" to 10" or up to 8" to 10" tall. Some style garments will have limited space available for the design (sweatshirts with front pockets, etc.).
Medium Weight Threads
These are the types of threads that you will most frequently find, most often 40 or 50wt. They can be used for most construction, quilting, machine embroidery, sergers, and general purpose sewing.
Embroidery Also Has Some Disadvantages
Needle and thread can only allow for hard-edge artwork. Fading, shading, and gradation are still very limited using embroidery. As you can imagine, it can compromise waterproof materials.
Stranded cotton embroidery thread
– This type of thread is the most commonly used and threads are a 100% cotton and have 6 strands. There are a variety of brands, we mostly use Anchor or DMC, but there are many smaller brands avalaible. DMC and Anchor are the most constant in colour, texture and colourfastness.
Coats & Clarks' rayon embroidery thread is specially engineered to provide a smooth finish and trouble-free sewing. The spools are the industry-favorite 40 wt. and have been tested to be compatible with most major machine embroidery formats.
A thread is labeled 40 wt. when 40 kilometers of that thread weighs 1 kilogram. A 30 wt. thread is heavier because it takes only 30 kilometers of thread to weigh one kilogram.