The following was written by Syracuse University intern Garrick Otero, who attend this past Saturday's seminar about spinning vs. bait casting reels at Bass Pro Shops at the Fingerlakes Mall. Otero taught me a few things with his account.
By Garrick Otero
Bass Pro Shops in Auburn offered a seminar about baitcasting vs. spinning reels on Saturday. Craig Nels, Tournament bass fisherman, guide, and sales associate for Bass Pro Shops, taught the one-hour course. Here’s a brief summary of what those who attended learned:
The right tool for the right job:
Nels first addressed the strengths and weaknesses of the different types of reels. He said it isn’t a question of which type of reel is better, but of which type is better for a particular situation. Spinning reels are simple to use and most people are comfortable with them, but they don’t handle heavy line well unless they have a very large spool. Otherwise, 10-lb. test line and up tends to jump off the spool, causing tangles.
“General rule of thumb, if you’re using light lures, go with a spinning reel,” Nell said, because it’s easier for a light lure to pull line off the spinning reel’s stationary spool than the baitcaster’s moving one.
For using “power techniques”, working with heavier lures like crankbaits and ½ oz. spinnerbaits, or fishing in heavy weeds where you need strong line, Nels recommends baitcasters because they have more torque and handle heavy line better. He noted that braided line is making spinning reels a little more versatile, but they still can’t compete with baitcasters for sheer power.
The ergonomics of baitcasters also have some advantages in certain situation: Nels said it’s easier to brace the butt of the rod against your stomach, giving more leverage when fighting heavy fish. Baitcaster’s are also more comfortable when pulling the rod tip down to side, as you would when fishing a jerkbait or Zara Spook.
There are two downsides to baitcasters: because the lure has to turn the spool as it’s going through the air, light baits without much momentum won’t go very far. And, baitcasters are more difficult to use. The fisherman has to press his thumb against the spool to keep it from spinning faster than the line is going out.
Nels explained that at the beginning of the cast the spool is spinning at the same speed as the lure is moving. Wind resistance slows the lure down, and if the spool keeps spinning at the same speed the line still on it with get loose, forming loops and tangles—known as backlash. Nels said baitcasters take some practice, but aren’t so difficult they should intimidate anyone.
Choosing a baitcaster:
Since most people are more familiar with spinning reels, Nels spent the rest of the seminar teaching his students how to choose and use their first baitcasters.
He noted that, unlike spinning reels, the baitcaster’s handle can’t be switched from one side to the other. “We used to never have left-handled reels, but there are tons of them now,” he said, adding that the choice is just a matter of personal preference—there’s no difference in performance.
Gear ratio is important, he said. A 6:1 reel will turn the spool six times for each crank of the handle. higher ratios let you reel in faster, but have less torque. Nels prefers faster reels for everything but large, deep-running crankbaits, where he likes the power of a lower gear ratio.
“One common misconception is that if you’re using a slow-moving lure like a rubber worm, you’ll want a slower reel, but that’s wrong,” he said, explaining that those lures should be worked with the rod tip, not the reel, so the ratio won’t affect the lure’s movement. “You’re just using the reel to take in the slack, so you might as well take it in faster, ” Nels told his audience.
“If you’re looking for one reel to do everything, get a 6:1,” he advised.
Understanding how it works:
As explained earlier, you use your thumb to keep the spool from forming backlashes. This takes some getting used to, Nels said—not enough thumb pressure, and you're line will tangle. Too much, and you won't be able to cast very far.
The reels have a couple built-in adjustments to help. On one side, you’ll find a knob that puts direct pressure on the spool bearing, keeping it from going too fast. Nels said this is the “main adjustment.” On the other side will be your “fine-tuner.” This is one of two kinds of brake: centrifugal or magnetic.
Centrifugal braking uses six small plastic wights that rub against the inside of the spool bearing, a lot like drum brakes in cars. You can choose how many of the brake posts to engage: the more you engage, the more it slows down the spool.
Magnetic braking uses a magnet inside the spool bearing. There will be a dial on the outside of the reel, and turning it up moves the magnet closer to the steel bearing, slowing it down more. Nels said a lot of baitcasting beginners like the magnetic brake systems because they can be adjusted more easily; you have to flip open the reel casing to adjust the posts in a centrifugal brake.
“The main brake, though, is your thumb,” Nels said. Experience baitcasters are able to put just the right amount of pressure on the spool to get maximum casting distance without backlashes. Nels recommended that beginners turn both adjustments all the way up. That will make it hard to cast very far, but will prevent backlashes.
Practice:
"Don't try to learn on the water," Nels said. He strongly recommended buying a baitcaster several months before the bass season opens. "I love seeing customers come into the store in March or April to buy a reel they plan on using in June," he said, adding that the more time spent in the backyard with a practice casting plug, the more success the fisherman will have when he's on the water.
First of all, he said, pair the reel with a soft-tipped rod that will load up easily. Cast with a smooth overhead motion—wait until you’ve got that down before trying sidecasts, pitching, or any other casting techniques. Disengage the spool by pushing down on the reel’s button, keeping your thumb on the spool so it can’t spin until you want it to.
Just like a spinning cast, you’ll pull the rod back to load up and then release on the forward swing. The difference is that you can’t entirely let your thumb off, or you’ll get backlashes. Nels said it will take time, but you have to learn to keep constant pressure on the line. “Anytime that spool is disengaged, keep your thumb on it,” he said.
Nels said to spool up with 12-or-14 lb monofilament because it’s easier to pick backlashes out of, and cheap—you will have to cut the line a few times when you get really bad tangles, he said.
“You will get backlashes,” Nels told his students. When it happens, he said to pull the loose line off the reel, then reel it back in, keeping tension on it. If you have to pick a tangle out, “look for the ‘V,’” he said: don’t try to pull on the loop itself.
Just pull the line until it’s stuck, then pick at the ‘V’ that’s holding it down. It’s tough to describe, but you’ll know it when you see it.
If you purchase a product or register for an account through a link on our site, we may receive compensation. By using this site, you consent to our User Agreement and agree that your clicks, interactions, and personal information may be collected, recorded, and/or stored by us and social media and other third-party partners in accordance with our Privacy Policy.
